Toff In Town head chef Karen Batson introduces Choo Choo’s, a reinvigorated, de-formalised menu for the Toff’s intimate Carriage Room. Perfect for late night sharing, Batson’s Thai-inspired menu brings the Toff into harmony with her other offerings at renowned gastro-bar Cookie and its cheeky cousin Colonel Tan’s at Revolver Upstairs.

“It's all about sharing and building a banquet” Karen says. “Choose from the array of small dishes, whether it be a Massaman curry with lamb dumplings, lettuce cup salad with minced pork, pork belly and kaffir lime”. It may be an after work drink to have with your chicken & salted duck egg dumplings or you may prefer to graze your way through the evening. For those night owls, look out for signature baby chilli beef basil burger.

Despite this culinary revolution, echoes of the Toff In Town’s refined Anglo past linger in the new menu. There’s a tongue in cheek Water Buffalo salad, with buffalo mozzarella dressed with Thai basil, tomato and chilli. Perhaps most importantly, the Toff’s much-loved cheese platters remain in a special Ode To the Toff section of the menu.

Then there are the tantalising new Choo Choo’s arrivals, such as a snapper hot pot with cabbage & mint salad and fermented noodles. Or a rice flour pancake, with roasted duck, snow peas, and fresh young coconut.

The small dish emphasis is most strongly felt in the mouth-watering array of skewers. Ordered individually, they range from pork and pineapple to turmeric and lemongrass chicken, then matched with sticky rice sticks and a classic green papaya salad. You are then in for a classic Thai hit. Mixing and matching is the name of the game.

“I’m excited about the idea of combining,” says Batson. “You can have a few skewers with a curry to the side, add a salad or a little coconut, lime and lemongrass broth. It’s great for the Toff’s cosy booths and it’s classic in the Thai way of eating.”